More ports generally means more area to get the fuel/air mixture into the cylinder, more fuel means more possible power (it can also mean more fuel stops). There are several pros and cons of more or less ports. Big ports don’t always work well as the gas speed through them is not high, when the fuel arrives in the cylinder there won’t be enough mixing and swirling or the fuel air mix and it also won’t push the exhaust gases out. Therefore a larger quantity of smaller ports can sometimes be an advantage. In a tiny .12 engine though you can end up with tiny ports because the webbing between them effectively takes up too much space. If you make the webs too thin they get too hot and can be the reason for seizures and unreliability. There is no real answer to this one as so many other factors also affect the engine, don’t forget though that reliability and good fuel consumption can make a world championship winning difference over 45 minutes.
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It is best practice to adjust the HSN in terms of “Hours” (ie hours of the clock face). If you are still not having any luck, try adjusting the mixture of the carb. There may not be enough fuel getting through, or too much!
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An engine’s life and performance are both greatly influenced by the tune. The richer an engine the more fuel and therefore the more lubrication your engine recieves, however you will also notice a decrease in performance as it will run sluggish. Running the engine too lean can however cause premature engine wear, because of the lack of lubricant provided by the fuel and excessively high temperatures. The leaner the engine, the less fuel it gets, and therefore less lubrication. Leaning increases the performance to a point. Too lean and the engine will over heat, burn up, and lose performance. Tune your engine based on performance, temperatures, and whether or not you have bluish or whitish smoke at WOT. Never run the engine overly rich to make it “last longer”, this can cause underheating and poor performance. Always tune for performance, it’s more fun anyway.
“As the tank pressure gets lower as a result of the fuel being used, the pipe has to pressurise a larger space. When you accelerate off the mark, that’s when the engine has the least amount of pressure in the tank. So for a split second the engine appears to have lean bog, because there is a lesser amount of pressure to push the fuel through the line.
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Go to previous slide – Save on Hobby RC Gas/Nitro Engines for Traxxas Japan Updated May 25, 2018 The last set of engine problems that can be fixed by adjusting your tuning are to do with braking, and these ones you address using the idle screw. A slightly misleading name in this case, but nonetheless a very helpful adjustment tool! If you’re not quite sure how the idle screw works, it basically sets the limit on how far back your throttle can go when you hit the brakes; further in and the throttle stays more open, but too far back and it will cut of all the fuel getting through, and kill your engine dead! Which is, by the way, one of the main symptoms of a poorly tuned idle screw. If your engine dies when you brake, this is exactly what’s wrong, so push that idle screw in a bit more! 1/8 of a turn clockwise is recommended, then do a quick, hot lap and try braking again. Problem not solved? In a little further. Problem solved? Great! It’s not dying, but the kit keeps rolling even after you’ve braked? Too far, take it back a little bit. Keep trying and testing the brakes until you get the balance right.
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